Seattle's First Brewpub - Big Time

Big Time: Seattle’s First Brewpub

By Jim Knapp, 11-08-07

It all started in 1982 at Grant's Brewery Pub right here in Yakima Washington, credited as being the first “brewery tavern” in the United States. Surprisingly, it took six years for this new craft beer movement to travel north 142 miles to finally reach Seattle’s tavern scene. It was then, in November 1988, that Big Time Brewery made history in an old renovated brick building on The Ave (formally a sports-bar-pizzeria) that they opened their taps as the first brewpub in Seattle. Today, about 20 years have past and Grant’s Yakima Brewing Company sadly poured their last pint in 2005. But Big Time’s taps are still pouring strong in Seattle’s U-District while also preparing for their upcoming 20^th Anniversary

In 1991, I was fortunate enough to discover Big Time. Always in search of something unique and different, Big Time was a suggested destination to this Emerald City transplant. It didn’t take long to see or taste just what makes Big Time different: the hand pumped cask conditioned ales (replenished every Thursday or Friday), the multitude of seasonal and specialty ales (over 50 different specialties have been produced), their four standard ale offerings (pale, amber, IPA, porter), and their special seasonal aged-to-perfection-Christmas-gift to all imbibers – the unbelievably rare Old Wooly barleywine.

Add in the spacious layout, large oak tables and chairs, a beautiful antique bar, great homemade chili, pizza and sandwiches then Big Time will become your regular destination on the dark and rainy Seattle Sunday afternoons.

Bill Jenkins, head brewer at Big Time Brewery

Bill Jenkins, the current head brewer at Big Time, is proud to acknowledge that the Big Time Brewery itself is but an oxymoron, “If the formula works, why change it?” he says. And rightly so, Big Time will probably never add more to its 10 taps, sell any beer not brewed there or bottle its beer for sale in your local beer store. Their size may not be Big Time, but they’re dedication to quality ales definitely is in the Big Time.

When I asked Bill about the origin of the Big Time name, I got many theories as to its origin. But one Bill brought up is the fact that the 1989 Peter Gaberial song, “Big Time” was played constantly on the brewery’s new jukebox. That is until the workers there had enough of Peter Gabriel and it was removed, but the name remains. Though the name’s origin is not readily linked to anything in particular, dedication of Big Time’s owner Reid Martin and Manager Armon Jones is well known since they’re still in charge 20 years after opening in 1988. Even the JVNW tankard brew system is the original equipment and still going strong. This unusual stability from the top probably accounts for the consistent quality microbrews that Big Time’s customers expect and have also been dedicated to for nearly 20 years.

I asked Bill if he thinks his customers are truly knowledgeable beer drinkers Bill replies, “We do get a lot of feedback from our regular customers and they are honest about it”. I asked Bill if anyone has asked for Big Time to carry other brands of beers besides their own, his answer was simply, “Never”. But it’s more than just about the beer, this is a well visited neighborhood gathering place on The Ave. During my brief visit with Bill, we were interrupted by a regular Big Time customer of 10 years! Beer in hand, he just wanted to say hi to Bill. Bill also points out that this is also a gathering place for the local University of Washington students to study in groups. Bill rattles off the different majors and when you can expect them, “law students on Wednesday, pre-med on Tuesdays”. Big Time recently installed a WiFi connection too, making it the perfect place for a pint while preparing for either a final exam of even the BAR.

Over a freshly pumped pint of cask conditioned Atlas Amber, Bill and I discussed his career and love of brewing. 17 years ago, a college grad fresh from Maine, Bill’s brewing career started out humbly and simply washing bottles in the cellar of the Seattle’s Pike Place Brewery. A dedicated home-brewer himself, Bill also had a job at a local home-brew supply store. It was while learning about the aspects of hard work at Pike, Bill met one of his early mentors, brewer Dick Cantwell (current owner of the Elysian Brewery in Seattle). Dick was one of the early Big Time head brewers and Bill was in the right place at the right time to receive hands-on training from one of the best in the business while at Pike Place Brewery. As time passed, Bill also was able to learn about open-fermentation while at Hale’s Brewery. Bill also traveled to Ireland and worked for a year to help a friend start a brewpub from scratch.

While sitting there listening to the war stories and of the interconnections between brewers/friends I soon learned that brewers in Seattle are like a tight community or family. Though these close knit brewers work for their share of the craft brewing market, they also work together to encourage creativity, sometimes share supplies and even have an occasional little friendly competition.

As far as upcoming Big Time 20^th Anniversary, “They’re still in the planning stage”. But Bill did have a few ideas to share regarding this important event, “I’d like to possibly brew some of original recipes”. Bill also hinted of a special Big Time 20^th Anniversary ale that may be in the works.

As far as the future of Big Time, from what I gathered talking with Bill is, don’t expect any Big Time changes. With the flexibility of small batches, and the creativity, experience and innovative recipes of its brewers Big Time will continue its tradition of producing honest fresh ales and their 20 year commitment to a consistent and quality product. Bill also sees beer trends headed towards fresh hopped ales and (after a recent trip to Europe) maybe even a Belgium-style ale in the near future. As for Bill’s future plans, “Owning my own place and maybe doing a good lager” are just a couple ideas he shared.